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Here is our list of the best places in Mpumulanga and for safari that most international tourists don’t go to. Yet. Many fly over the best bits of Mpumulanga on their way to very expensive safaris. But by taking some local advice, you can have a better trip and do your wallet a favour. In no particular order….
Most tourists head for the five star safari lodges further south and their wallets take a hit accordingly. Safari can be very, very expensive and there’s no easier way to save money on a trip to SA than to look a bit further north, where many of the locals go. Our favourite reserve is Timbavati, especially Umlani Bushcamp. There are a range of accommodation alternatives, so you don’t need to sacrifice luxury, but we find the bush experience most rewarding when you get the right balance of low impact tourism and comfort (the food, service and accommodation are usually very good on all safaris). These camps are typically right in the middle of the bush so you fall asleep to a chorus of cicadas and indeterminate grunting. The rangers are usually of a better quality because the locals demand real expert knowledge and are more discerning when it comes to tipping. Walking safari’s (or normal safari’s with some walking) are our favourite way to enjoy nature. Your tracker will tell you stories about the night before simply by looking at spore, the small creatures and plants are often more interesting than the one’s you’ve seen on TV and when you eventually track an animal down, there’s something a lot more real about viewing it at a distance from ground level. Our favourite is Ngala Walking Safaris. Out of season, consider booking as late as possible – there’s usually availability if you are willing to be flexible and you will pay a fraction of what the other foreigners do.
The Limpopo, or northern, end of Kruger National Park is the most remote and empty area of this massive reserve, largely because it’s less accessible to visitors (both foreign and local). However you can still get there in a long day's drive from Johannesburg. The different rainfall patterns and warmer climate means there are a great range of ecosystems including bushveld, woodland, riverine forest and grassy plains – unlike the south which is largely dominated by the obscuring bushveld alone. Pafuri, Punda Maria and Phalabora Gates are all in the province and offer a quieter and better-value version of the park than is available further south. As you head north, Kruger's topography changes to rocky outcrops, hills and dramatic river-made valleys, making this a superb option for walking safaris. In a matter of minutes you can go from dry, dusty bush to verdant tropical floodplains complete with palm trees near the Limpopo and Luvuvhu Rivers. This is a birder’s paradise – the sheer volume and variety of rare species makes up for the lower concentrations of the Big 5 found further to the south.
Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park (KZN Coast)
This gem is actually in KwaZulu-Natal, not far from Saint Lucia, but makes the cut for one of the best safari experiences in SA. Very few tourists have even heard of it. It makes a very scenic alternative (or addition) to Kruger because of the hilly topography and lush green vegetation (which can get in the way of viewing – winter is the best time to visit). All the big game can be found including a population of the rare black rhino. You can self-drive but we recommend staying at a lodge (there’s a good range for all budgets) and joining their own drives with rangers. It is famed for its wilderness walking trails which typically take three to four days. The prices are very reasonable and on most trails (apart from specialised wilderness trails) you only need to carry a day pack. But beware: these trails can be booked a long time in advance (however there are last minute cancellations) and anti-malarials are recommended in the region.
Spending time in Dullstroom, you can be forgiven for doubting that this is the quickest route to the best safari country in South Africa. This feels more like the highlands of Scotland than the Serengeti with pine forests, the best fly fishing in South Africa and a cool, temperate climate all year round. There are many great accommodation options, including lodges with their own grounds for walking as well as well-stocked trout dams. Good eating is also on the agenda, with plenty of local fresh food, deli-type farm shops and restaurants that place a premium on local, fresh ingredients. There’s lots to do in the surrounding areas including some great hikes, scenery and history.
Sabie is situated halfway between Johannesburg and Kruger and makes the perfect place to break the long drive. Situated on the escarpment, where the Highveld dramatically drops to meet the humid Lowveld, it has a nice climate all year round. This is ‘Jock of the Bushveld’ country, as well as the site of some interesting events during the Anglo-Boer War. The Woodsman is a great pub to while away the afternoon. Hiking to the nearby Mac Mac Falls is a good way to stretch out the legs. From Sabie, take a drive to breath-taking God’s Window, where you can stand on a precipice looking over the escarpment out towards Kruger and Mozambique. The scenic drives along the top, and going down, the escarpment are some of the best in SA.
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