Our Top Five / Off-the-beaten-track / KwaZulu-Natal >>

Here is our list of the best places in KwaZulu Natal that most international tourists don’t go to. Yet. ‘KZN’ has probably the best undiscovered beaches in SA and, being where the three civilisations of the Zulu Kingdom, the British Empire and the Boer Republics clashed, has some excellent historical and cultural sites of interest. Combined with the sheer range of scenery, this is the region that we could write the longest list of places that tourists don’t go, but should. In no particular order...

The Midlands and Southern Drakensberg

The Midlands are the most unvisited (by foreigners), yet in our opinion the most beautiful part of the stunning Drakensberg range of mountains. The sheer cliffs that make the northern Drakensberg impenetrable give way to a mix of rolling hills and dramatic valleys between soaring green mountains. The area around Underberg, the Sani Pass and Giant’s Castle is wild, but also our favourite – take a drive along the network of tarred and un-tarred winding roads which are suitable for all cars before heading up a track to your remote hotel or farmstay. Around Nottingham Road you can sample a cosmopolitan range of locally produced foods at farmstalls, superb dining and battlefields sites in this historic settler country. The southern Midlands remind us of The Lake District or Borders with town names and a strong British identity to match - you could easily spend a week exploring this fascinating region of Kwazulu-Natal.

Zululand

The Zulu Kingdom has kept its identity intact more than any other tribe in SA, through tumultuous times including the Anglo-Zulu Wars (see Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift) as well as Apartheid, when Zululand was a separate black homeland. Zululand itself is a large area, but we recommend avoiding some of the tourist traps such as the royal palaces around Ulundi and the themepark-like Shakaland (unless you're looking to entertain children) which are disappointing. Rather just take a drive through remote villages clinging to the sides of the rolling green hills, especially around Eshowe (Cetshwayo’s stronghold). At Eshowe you can hike along lofty board-walks in indigenous mist-belt forest at the height of the birds, hike to Mpushini Falls or sample the beer ‘Zulu Blonde’ which is brewed on site at the George Hotel. The Valley of a Thousand Hills is the place for lunch if travelling around Durban, with some good dining options with spectacular views.

Zinkwazi (KZN Coast)

Situated only an hour's drive from Durban, Zinkwazi is our pick of coastal destinations on this section of the north coast. This is ‘millionaire’s row’, where the wealthiest South Africans have their beach homes and it’s obvious why they’ve chosen it. The large, unspoilt lagoon winds through remote valleys before making its way at high tide across a white beach. Although it can get busy over the Christmas period, if you walk a short distance up the beach, you’ll have it to yourself. Renting one of the many luxurious houses on the lagoon or beach is the way forward here. There are limited hotel and dining options – although the Zinkwazi Campsite on the lagoon actually offers some very comfortable small lodges to rent as well as a superbly situated (in the rainforest) bar and restaurant. Zinkwazi is an excellent place from which to explore Zululand (see above), visit The Prawn Shack or as a stop over on the way north to Saint Lucia or Swaziland.

Kosi Bay (KZN Coast)

Kosi Bay is practically on the Mozambique border, right in the northern tip of KZN. Fortunately, this remoteness and the restrictions on development within the nature reserve, mean that you can enjoy the rare raffia-palm, fig and mangrove forests bordering on the four pristine lagoons on your way to one of the best beaches and snorkelling in SA. There are some smart hotels as well as budget options (Kosi Bay is very popular with backpackers on their way to Mozambique), but many of these are situated a long way from the beach which can only be accessed by 4X4 or foot. There is some of the best shore fishing in SA, but be mindful of the massive leatherback turtles which (with a guide) you can see hatch their eggs on the beach from December to January at night. Several hiking trails used to run through the park, but these are not running at the moment unfortunately.

Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park (KZN Coast)

This gem makes the cut as one of the best safari experiences in SA. Very few tourists have even heard of it. It makes a very scenic alternative (or addition) to Kruger because of the hilly topography and lush green vegetation (which can get in the way of viewing – winter is the best time to visit). All the big game can be found including a population of the rare black rhino. You can self-drive but we recommend staying at a lodge (there’s a good range for all budgets) and joining their own drives with rangers. It is famed for its wilderness walking trails which typically take three to four days. The prices are very reasonable though directly related to whether you carry all your own equipment (including tents). But beware: these trails can be booked a long time in advance (however some last minute cancellations may be available) and anti-malarials are recommended in the region.