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Here is our list of the top places international visitors go in the Eastern Cape. In no particular order….
This 120,000 hectare park is not far from Port Elizabeth and was opened to protect the wild elephant population that had been wiped out from most of the Eastern Cape. Even driving yourself you’ve got a good chance to see elephants, but play the percentage game and ask at the gate for advice on where to go. You may also see a wide range of antelope, zebras, warthogs and - if you’re very lucky - some of the big cats that have been re-introduced. If it’s been raining a lot or you want to understand more about what you’re seeing, let us organise for you to go on drive with the rangers. There are plenty of five star safari lodges in private conservancies within the Park itself, our favourite being the ultra-luxurious Nguni River Lodge which provides eclectic style in a secluded setting so that you have a good chance of seeing game as you enjoy their fine dining or private massage. There are other cheaper, but still superb, lodges just outside the main gate. Even better value is the SANParks accommodation within the reserve, especially the rondavels overlooking the waterholes where you have a good chance of seeing rhino.
Jeffrey's Bay was not love at first sight for us. Although it has a great beach and internationally-renowned surf, it appeared to be another failure of South African town-planning: sprawling housing developments and roads preventing easy access to the beach. We stayed at Island Vibe backpackers - which in all other respects is a great backpackers - but is located next to a township making walking into town at night inadvisable.
However, this is to miss the best of Jeffrey's Bay. If you chose your beachfront accommodation wisely (our favourite is Diaz 15) and all you want is a relaxing holiday with sun, sandy beaches that are safe for swimming and a convenient location near to Port Elizabeth, then you could do a lot, lot worse than J'Bay.
Tsitsikamma National Park (Garden Route)
Tsitsikamma National Park protects a long, thin stretch of indigenous coastal forest and ocean where the Tsitsikamma Mountains drop into the sea. There’s a reason to go for almost everyone: a must for fans of flora to see the wide range of fynbos and ancient forest; hikers will enjoy walking through deep valleys and dramatic descents to the sea - there are options from short day hikes to the famous (and very booked up) Otter Trail - and wildlife lovers have a chance to see baboons, small buck and even the rare Cape Clawless Otter. Nearby Nature’s Valley and Storms River Village offer much the same (plus river tubing, bungee jumping and sky-diving) and have some good accommodation options. Highly recommended.
The small settlement of Coffee Bay is definitely worth the long drive off the N2, if only for the magnificent beach on a deserted Bay framed by dramtic cliffs and the spectacular walks in the green rolling hills (especially in the excellent Hluleka Nature Reserve). The nearby Hole-in-the-Wall rock formation is a stunning example of Mother Nature doing her best to impress. There’s plenty to keep you occupied – scuba diving, beach, forest hikes, surfing and some of the best coastal fishing in Southern Africa. This is the heart of the Wild Coast and if you only stop off at one place on this stretch of pristine coastline, it would be hard to do better.
If you don’t have the time or the money to head up to safari country in the north and east of South Africa, this is a good alternative. Take that one photo of big game that you’ll show to friends back home, hiding the hundreds that didn’t come out. Shamwari Game Reserve is a good, if more expensive, alternative to Addo Elephant Park. You have a good chance to see the Big Five and the ranger we had was engaging and informative – always a good sign that the place is well run. There’s a wide range of accommodation alternatives (including a lodge that specifically caters for young children, complete with creche etc.) but also consider the two day camping trail.
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